The History of Surfing

We don’t often associate surf culture with old traditions and long histories, but wave riding goes back over 1500 years, likely originating in Hawaii, but spreading throughout much of the South Pacific in following centuries. As recently as 200 years ago, surfing was an important part of a complicated Hawaiian hierarchical structure, where the chiefs and other royalty got the best boards and the best surf spots, while the commoners took the leftovers. This was probably the first time such a thing as localism (locals wanting to keep their breaks to themselves, and not let outsiders in) existed in surfing.

When Christian missionaries arrived in Hawaii, surfing was frowned upon due to assumptions due to the traditional nudity during the conducting of the Maui people’s sacred sport. Hawaiians fought hard against the abolishment of surfing more many years, ultimately, luckily for us today, succeeding. In 1905, Duke Kahanamoku founded the Hui Nala ground, which means “Club of waves” in Maui, to combat multiple other surf groups that attempted to exploit surfing as a way to attract tourists and take the native peoples’ surf spots.

The duke began giving surf demonstrations in the early 1910s all around the world, in places like Australia, the USA west coast and New Zealand, sharing with everyone the beauty of surfing. Throughout the 50s and 60s, surf culture, together with beach culture, which were at the time, and still are, very interwoven, began influencing art, music, books, fashion, and, most importantly, the language. Surfers create their own slang, with some subcultures even creating their completely own languages. Many of these words are still in use today. The surfers did not want anyone outside of their associates understanding what they said, so they could speak freely, it was like a code.

Up to the late 60s and early 70s, before its big break into the mainstream, surf culture was frowned upon by outsiders, as it was associated with illegal activities, like gangs, graffiti, and especially drugs. While this was somewhat true, it was overexaggerated to a great extent. The first world surf championship was hosted in Sydney, in 1964, and the International Surfing Federation (which would become the International Surfing Association in 1976) was also founded during this event.

Professional surf has evolved greatly since then, with maneuvers that would have been considered impossible in the 80 required to have a chance at making it in surfing. Smaller boards, crazier maneuvers, ever faster waves, that’s the trajectory of the surf movement. However, professional surfing has not captured the publics attention to the extent of other ´professional sports, and still struggles to get sponsorships, as it does not have the approval of many of the grassroot, traditional, surfers, who are very opposed to the idea of surf competitions, preferring the big wave riding or surfing alone, as individuals, not as competitors. This highlights a great problem for surfers all around the world, the desire to hide the locations of good waves, keep it to themselves, and at the same time impress others, and be seen by the world.

Personally, while I don’t love all aspects of culture, I especially dislike localism as it is selfish and immature, I love the sport and much of the way of life people have built around it. I love the laid back, calm, almost serene feeling you get while surfing alone or with friends, and the friendliness people often show. I highly recommend trying out surfing, as it is a wonderful sport with is amazing for your mind and body.